The four-cavity connector includes battery, ground, and key switch terminals and is activated via the ignition switch.īore/Stroke: 73 x 72mm (2.9 x 2. The bumper has a locating bar that lets it fold forward to allow the bonnet to be raised for servicing.Īnother feature on the John Deere X350 is a 12-volt fast connector located underneath the fuse box for quick installation of additional attachments where required. The choke lever is spring loaded to prevent the X350 from running with the choke partially closed.Īnother option that I was pleased with was the bumper brush guard ($200.38) that provides added protection at the front of the tractor. There is a separate engine speed lever and choke control that make starting and warming up the engine easier especially in cold weather. Cruise control is activated via an automotive-style button. The latch control on the foot-lift and the park-brake latch are pivot levers for low effort. The PTO switch is easy to pull up for activation. Colour-coded controls are all labelled clearly for easy identification and use. NOT IN MY 350B parts book! I am wondering if it is a set up from an earlier 350 model, or maybe someone had trouble finding a replacement part for the right angle ball coupling (AT 17364) and came up with their own solution.The contoured dash has a clean and attractive styling. Otherwise, the set up worked the same and the brake linkage was the same. IOW, the entire set up was exactly reversed from the configuration on the left clutch and with a strange right angle ball joint to boot. The fine threaded adjustment rod with the right angle ball joint was attached to the clutch throwout lever - but the ball assembly was much larger. Today I pulled the cover off the RIGHT steering clutch (for comparison) and, lo and behold, the entire configuration was DIFFERENT! The spring loaded ball joint coupling (AT 17365) was attached to the RADIAL arm linked to the steering lever (vs the clutch throwout lever as on the left clutch). Separate subject: All my previous posts on this subject dealt with a problem in my LEFT steering clutch. Maybe the design engineer for the 350 thought you need fine adjustment on clutch links? design engineers can be a bit anal like that. I always thought these kind of threads were used on machine tools such as lathes for fine adjustments. None of it makes sense for use on a bulldozer. I can also tell you how I got the broken ball stud out of the steering lever but all that might be more than anyone wants to read in one post. Why does that ball coupling seem prone to break and why did JD use machine threads on the adjuster rod? I have theories for both if anyone is interested in hearing. There is no force pulling against the threads at any time during normal operation. Of course that weakens the thread structure in the coupler a bit, but the new jam nut (a standard 3/8 fine thread) should take most of the pushing stress when you activate the steering lever as long as you snug the jam nut against the adjustment coupling (17365). The tap went through easily since there is not much difference in the pitch (24 vs probably 28). My solution (after lengthy discussion with my JD parts person who couldn't figure it out either) was to run a 3/8 - 24 tap through the clutch shaft coupling (17365) and rethread it. Buy It Now Condition Shipping 559 results for john deere 350 dozer Save this search Shipping to: 23917 Shop on eBay Brand New 20.00 or Best Offer Sponsored Service Parts Operator Manuals John Deere 350 Jd350 Crawler Tractor Loader Dozer New (Other) 105.97 Top Rated Plus Buy It Now peacefulcreekauctions (77,388) 99. If you lay the old and new parts side by side, you can barely see the difference, but it becomes obvious when you try to put the old jam nut on the new adjuster rod or screw it into the clutch shaft coupling (PN 17365). The new part has standard automotive fine threads (3/8 - 24) on both the adjuster rod as well as the ball side that screws into the steering lever. The problem is the old L shaped link with the ball and socket (PN AT17364) has a different thread pitch (smaller, machine thread I think) on the adjuster rod than the part they want to give you to replace it (AT317916, I'm guessing). Been there, fixed that - just yesterday (I think).
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